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Skagit River Journal

of History & Folklore
Subscribers Edition Stories & Photos
The most in-depth, comprehensive site about the Skagit.
Covers from British Columbia to Puget sound. Counties covered: Skagit, Whatcom, Island, San Juan. An evolving history dedicated to the principle of committing random acts of historical kindness

Noel V. Bourasaw, editor (bullet)

810 Central Ave., Sedro-Woolley, Washington, 98284
Home of the Tarheel Stomp (bullet)

Mortimer Cook slept here & named the town Bug

Skagit News earliest issues, 1884
April 1-15, 1884

Skagit News, April 1, 1884 Volume 1, Issue 5 Field notes

Capt. Roeder's force of men is operating a stone quarry at Chuckanut and the stone is to be shipped to Port Townsend.

Capt. Henry Roeder [Capt. Henry Roeder is considered the father of the Whatcom settlement. There were others in the Bellingham Bay area before, but he established a permanent site. He and Russell Peabody and two local Lummi guides landed at the foot of Whatcom Falls on December 15, 1852. That was roughly where the Whatcom county courthouse stands today. Chief Chawitzit of the Lummi island tribe supplied men to help the partners build their sawmill.
Roeder was born July 4, 1824, in Herstadt, Germany, and his father, John Roeder, was a soldier in the Prussian army that fought at Waterloo. The family emigrated to Vermilion, Ohio, when Henry was seven and he became a sailor on the Great Lakes when he was 16, thus earning his title over the years. He met his future wife, Elizabeth Austin, there and her friend Phoebe Goodell later married Holden Judson and became one of the first settlers of Lynden.
His wagon train reached Sacramento in August 1850, he started a store with Peabody at the headwaters of the Feather river and later bought stock in the Sacramento Fishing Company. Although we have not been able to place them together for any significant period of time, Roeder and Sedro pioneers Mortimer Cook and John Warner were all argonauts during the 1850s Gold Rush in that area. Fire led Roeder north. The fish company burned and he and Peabody headed towards Portland. En route they heard of the sixth fire in San Francisco and they began looking in earnest for a site to build a sawmill and provide lumber for rebuilding the city.
After locating the site at Whatcom Falls, Roeder returned to San Francisco for machinery and millwrights. There he met William Utter, a millwright, and his old friend from Lake Erie, Edward Eldridge, who was on his way to settle in Australia when Roeder persuaded Eldridge to join him. They became two of the earliest settlers on Bellingham Bay.
The mill was an iffy business, so Roeder sailed on Puget sound and built his own boats, trading up and down the Sound until 1858, when gold was discovered on the Fraser river in British Columbia and Whatcom became the gateway. He and Mortimer Cook partnered in a pack-train business, delivered freight to the miners. He had discovered the sandstone deposits on Chuckanut in 1853 and his major contract was for a lighthouse in Victoria, B.C. That business was a sideline for Roeder until 1876 when Portland, Oregon, ordered 6,000 tons of sandstone for its Customs House. He married Elizabeth Austin in the parlor of the old hotel at Olympia on Feb. 10, 1855.]

Olaf Polson [also spelled Olof in some records] on Brown's slough is noted as being a Skagit county pioneer since 1871, along with John Chilberg of Beaver Marsh.
[Ed. note: Olaf Polson emigrated from Sweden to the U.S. in 1868 and soon settled near Ottumwa, Iowa, a common meeting site for Swedish immigrants. In 1871, Polson headed west on the Central Pacific with one of his sons and other relatives and friends, boarded a steamer from San Francisco to Portland and then walked overland in the Washington territory to Olympia. The party continued north by canoe with fellow immigrants John and C.J. Chilberg and they searched the Skagit river tide flats on Fir island for property. The Polsons homesteaded on Braun's slough, which is now known as Brown's slough, named for William Brown. C.J. Chilberg had scouted the territory here a year or two earlier and he settled on the Beaver Marsh with a cabin on Pleasant Ridge. Polson's son Perry began selling farm implements in LaConner with partner F.S. Poole in 1885 and that business evolved into several more, including the Polson Implement and Hardware companies of LaConner and Seattle, which became leaders in their field by the turn of the 20th century. Just two months after this 1884 issue was published, Charles J. Wicker Sr. moved out here from the Iowa area where the Swedes moved from. He was 21 and was eight when the Swedes began their movement here.]
Since the Indians have left the upper river, settlers, claim hunters and all that class of mortals are pushing up toward the Sauk. They go afoot and horseback, by canoe and steamboat, sober and drunk, all full of the new country. We may as well state right here, there is very little prairie land on the Sauk, and that is all taken.
Messrs. [Charles] Wicker and [John] Mitchell have had some downs as well as ups in their life on the river. They take either treatment philosophically and though a cabin may go down one day, it is rebuilt the next and they fry their bacon as cheerfully as ever. They now have a hospital with one patient, but will turn him loose soon. [Although we do not know the hospital reference, see this Journal website for the story of Wicker's comical experience when he first homesteaded in the Skiyou district northeast of future Sedro.]
Henry Cooper has established a stable for visitors who stop over at Lyman. [Cooper and his cousin Henry Cooper Leggett were from Quebec and moved in the late 1870s to the area where Lyman and Hamilton would later rise. They had tried their hand first at mining in Nevada. See more details of the family at the website for the late Bud Meyers]
Master Ernest Dreyer of Sterling celebrated his eighth birthday last week. The party began after school, with supper at seven and then a party, which ended at nine.
[Ed. note: Ernest H. Dreyer was born on March 26, 1876 when his parents, Henry and Alma Dreyer, lived in Santa Clara county, California. Henry Dreyer was born near Hanover, Germany, in 1848, and emigrated to England in 1865, where he joined the British Merchant Marine. While in San Francisco Bay in 1873, he apparently jumped ship to work in the nearby vineyards. After marrying Alma Nash and starting his family, they moved north in 1881 and Henry was hired to work in a logging camp "near Mount Vernon" in Washington territory. After a year in the woods, Henry moved his young family to Willamette valley, Oregon, but nine months later they returned to the Skagit. As Alma often explained with a chuckle, "Mosquitoes drove us from Skagit county and Willamette flies drove us back." Ernest never married and he died in Skagit county in 1948. We are now preparing a profile of this fascinating family, but you can read more about them at this Journal website about Harry Osborne]
[Michael] McNamara and [Henry Cooper] Leggett will represent Mount Vernon lodge No. 23 of the IOOF [Odd Fellows] at the Grand Lodge in Walla Walla on May 13. The local lodge now has 35 members.
Editorial: The survey of Range 9 and post office improvements that we called for are under way. [See Issue 1 above. That range area was around the mouth of the Sauk river.]
William Hamilton is greatly pleased with Mr. A. Davis, who made an examination of the iron ore on the Skagit a mile above his place. Evidently Mr. Davis has been complimenting him upon his place and prospects. Mr. Hamilton, within a short time, has gathered a fine stock of goods, and is enlarging his store.
[Ed. note: This "above" location is confusing because Hamilton's store, post office and landing was on the north shore of the Skagit where his namesake town would rise in 1889-91. The iron deposits were in Iron Mountain, which rises steeply from the south shore of the river. The editor alludes to a "short time," which is also confusing since all reports place Hamilton at his future townsite in 1875. But maybe this means that Mr. Hamilton was spending part of time elsewhere, possibly LaConner, since we know that the family went there more than once for the children's sake. The year 1884 marked the second large movement of settlers upriver, the first being the years 1877-78.]
New townships surveyed. The plats of townships 27 and 28 north, range 8 east, and also of township 29, range 9 east, have been filed in the land office in Olympia, and the lands are now ready for claimants to make their filings thereon. Those lands are situated on the Skykomish river, in Snohomish county, and comprise as fine a body of timber land as there is in the Territory.

Sterling

The Sterling school has been in session two weeks, with Miss L.J. Turner as teacher. There are thirteen pupils in attendance and under the experienced guidance of Miss Turner the school is flourishing. [Ewing editorialized:] The district has nineteen on the roll, and that number should attend. What work can be done by children is dearly purchased if it keeps them out of school. The terms should be much lengthened. Short terms make scant learning. [In those days, the school term was three months long, timed after harvesting and field work was completed.]
Fifteen men are working at Ball's camp in Sterling. [Jesse B. Ball was a very early logger in Washington territory and set up his camp at a riffle on the Skagit river in 1878 just above the junction of Nookachamps creek. For our exclusive feature on his life and the birth of the town of Sterling, see this Journal website]
The Sterling population has increased by two. Mr. E.D. Lancaster and his wife are bunking at the home of Mr. and Mrs. Albion F. Welch. Mr. James Richmond and his family are already keeping house there. [See the same link as above for Emma Welch, whose baby was the first upriver newborn.]
Lindstedt has his new hotel furnished in good style and greets the traveler in his usual hearty style. His old place is still used for stowaways when the crowds come thick and fast.
[Ed. note: Sterling had been a place for travelers to bunk down since 1873. By 1878, Lafayette Stevens and Jesse B. Ball were permanent residents. When the log jams in Mount Vernon were cut through enough to allow steamboats through, Sterling and Ball's riffle in the river became the place where they turned around most of the year. A combination of low water level and hidden snags just underneath the surface made the upper river a challenge except for the captains like Dan Benson of Skiyou who had been plying it for years. As settlers and miners came in larger bunches, starting with the gold rush of 1880 on Ruby Creek, a hotel was needed at Sterling. Lindstedt was apparently the one to provide it.

Logging camps

In quest of news and other good things, our tramp took in Record's camp on the Nookachamps and enjoyed its hospitality. The novelty of the camp is the stationary yard engine. This is an upright boiler and above a heavy frame that forms a sled on which it can be hauled to its place. The engine is anchored to a stump, a way swamped out to the log wanted, and a thick cable fastened to it and wound about "gypsies" or large spools on the engine. They say it will do the work of an ox team in a much shorter time. But you must look out for your feet, says Pringle, in fooling around the engine. [This is possibly the most fascinating item in all these early issues. The year 1881 is generally declared the beginning of technological change in the logging industry. This issue marks the first time a Dolbeer steam donkey was recorded in use in Skagit county. See our Dolbeer website in our separate Subscribers Edition online.]
There are 16 men, cook and all, in Clothier & English logging camp above Lyman. J.W. Kinney is in charge. On Wednesday the logs hauled was 43,000 feet. Jack "Flint" thinks the failure of the pump has benefited the camp more than anything could do. What do they substitute for water?
Longellow's camp has 12 men employed [no first name]. Doty has five men in camp on the Nookachamps.
Young Jackman reports twelve men in the camp. There is no Young Jackman in the records, so we assume that this refers to Andrew Jackson Jackman, the namesake of Jackman creek and ridge. His marriage to Mary Anna Henry, a native American on June 10, 1884, was the fifth recorded in Skagit county. After Jackman died, she was married to one of the most famous upper Skagit tribal members, John Napoleon, whose 1936 funeral led to the formation of the Territorial Daughters.

This photo from the late John Wicker shows a logging crew with an early steam donkey sometime circa the 1890s. See the note above for details and a link to the story of the Dolbeer steam donkey that revolutionized logging starting in the 1880s.

Advertisements

William Hamilton, general store, Hamilton's Landing. Groceries and supplies, dry goods, boots and shoes, hardware, tinware and farming implements. Prices the same as on the lower river.
Legal notice: Frank Ledger and H.D. Cole dissolve their partnership my mutual consent, Cole withdrawing. Ledger assumes the debts. The company soon becomes Ball and Ledger, dealers in general merchandise. [The new partner is Jesse B. Ball, who gained fame for his logging outfit at Ball's Landing, west of future Sedro, which became the town of Sterling sometime in the early 1880s.]
Brownrig & Quinn. Lyman Hotel. Liquor and cigars, ample accommodations for guests. 1st class table. [We have not found a record of Mr. Brownrig but Henry Quinn had been a compadre of Otto Klement at the Lyman settlement since 1881. Klement platted Lyman in 1884, anticipating that it would become the center of commerce upriver because it was in the middle of logging camps that stretched upriver from Utopia to the Sauk river.

April 8, 1884 Volume 1, Issue 6 Field notes

Mount Baker Lodge Free and Accepted Masons meets at Skagit City on the First Saturday of each month on or after the full moon. Thomas Hastie, master. John Gage, Secretary [Gage was the brother of William and D.E. Gage.]
Mount Vernon lodge No. 23 of the IOOF [Odd Fellows] Meets every Saturday at 7:30 p.m. in the hall over the post office.
A.K. Skaling of Avon departed by steamer Glide to Seattle to catch another ship to Windsor, Nova Scotia, to settle his father's estate. Will be gone 2-3 months.
A.K. Skaling of Avon advertises "Temperance Town" deeds that do not allow sale of liquor
Rev. W. B. McMillen's [also spelled McMillan in some records] appointments are Avon in the mornings and Mount Vernon in the afternoon of the first and third Sundays in the month. Skagit [City] has the second and fourth Sundays with preaching at the North fork school house in the afternoon. [He was a Methodist Episcopalian circuit rider. See this Journal website about early itinerant preachers of the county]
Mrs. H.L. Inman dies on Pleasant Ridge

The Ranch Talks with farmers

Henry Cooper, Lyman. "I came from the fertile banks of the St. Laurence river in Dominion of Canada and clearing is harder here. One acre here yields two there in hay, grain or vegetables. I have 100 acres that will not cost me over $35 per acre to make ready for plow. I slash my timber for a good burn in June and cut it fine so it will burn well in August and September. Slashed two acres in June, cleared up, saved it to grain, $20 an acre cost. In June 1877 I slashed four acres in 14 days. In Fall of 1877 I cleared all with plow. Figuring my wages at $50 per month, the four acres cost me $31 per acre. In the summer of 1878 I raised 24 bushels of wheat, 14 bushels of oats, 380 bushels of potatoes, 800 pounds of onions, a half ton of hay, five tons of vegetables altogether including turnips, carrots, beets and parsnips. That is worth $388 today, good wages for five months."
B.T. Howard, Sterling. Have had no great experience in farming here but have grown some fair corn. The ears are of medium size and the stalk short. The season is long enough for corn but the nights are too cool throughout the summer. Onions do not do well on this sandy soil
M. Everetts, Birdsview. Have been eight years on my ranch. Last year I raised 20 tons of hay, which brought $25 per ton; 100 bushels of potatoes, which I sold for 75¢ per bushel; also raised a large supply of garden stuff, together with apples and plumes
James Cochrane, Wilburton. It cost me $200 to clear five acres for the plow. The timber was not very heavy.
Only 72 bushels of oats to the acre at Ole Lonke's, Fir.

Advertisements

Legal notice: The partnership of Otto Klement, Harrison Clothier and Edward English at Lyman dissolved Jan. 5, 1884. Klement assumes all liabilities.
George Dean advertises Town of Samish lots. [Samish was platted smack dab up against the town of Atlanta, which was organized in 1883 by former Whatcom county sheriff George Washington Lafayette Allen. Allen built a hotel on Samish island, which he called the Atlanta Home. It was rumored to be "a sanctuary for persecuted Confederates and other sympathizers with the lost cause," but we have never found substantiation for this. The towns of Atlanta by Allen and Samish by Dean were separated by only one street. Each built docks north from the shore and each added extensions to outdo the other. By the time of the nationwide Depression of 1893, both towns had fallen. Allen went on to start his namesake town to the southeast.]
Morling House, Frank Carrin, Mann's Landing.
Ball & Ledger. General Merchandise, cash basis
Steamer Glide for the upper Skagit. G.W. Gove, master. Leaves Seattle, Tuesdays and Fridays for Stanwood, Utsalady, Mannn's Landing, Skagit City, Mount Vernon and all intermediate landings.
Sterling Hotel liquors and cigars. Enlarged and refurnished for the accommodation of the public. A.H. Lindstedt, proprietor.

April 15, 1884 Volume 1, Issue 7 Field notes

Clothier & English [founders of Mount Vernon in 1877] have contracted to furnish 500,000 feet of logs to the Bellingham Mill company for $6 per thousand.
[Thomas] R. Jones has ten men logging off the spruce from his place on the North Fork [of the Skagit river]. They put in about twenty thousand a day.
The iron and coal fields are now exciting much interest. One party is now examining [James] J. Conner's coal mines and another has just returned from inspecting the iron ore near Hamilton. [These mines were on the south shore of the Skagit across from Hamilton. See our story about the early coal mining on the Skagit river, which started in 1874, at this Journal website]
[Harrison] Clothier, Esq., has returned from southern California, where he has spent a month or so in rest and recreation. He says the indications promise an abundant harvest, but that the market for breadstuffs is lower than it has been for years, and that the lumber yards have large supplies on hand.
Papin & Jacobs's force went up to camp Sunday morning on the Bob Irving [sternwheeler]. They were about twenty in number, many of them Canadian French. They lad in a good stock of eau-de-vie [French for "water of life" or brandy] and tobacco, and according to all accounts, roused the echoes wherever they could find any to rouse. They went to work like Mark Twain's ancestors into battle, singing and shouting. It is to be hoped they will not come down flying. [We are curious if "Mark Twain's ancestors" was a figure of speech of the day or whether it should just be taken literally, because his parents were from Kentucky and they raised their first batch of kids in the hill country of Tennessee where the White Lightning flowed like honey.]
Mr. James Power has leased the Puget Sound Mail to Messrs. Walsh & Riggins for two years. A jobbing [printing] outfit has just been added at an expense of $500. The option of purchasing at any time before the expiration of the term, has been included, so that the present managers may become actual proprietors. Mr. Power is now footloose after ten years' continuous service in his profession in this county, and may celebrate his freedom by a visit to the East or to Coeur d'Alene, as his fancy leads him. [Power, the legendary founder of the Mail newspaper on Bellingham Bay in 1873, and one of the key instigators of the break-off of Skagit county from Whatcom in 1883, originally moved to the wild West from Washington, D.C., where he was a government printer.]
John Walker, who settled above Birdsview a year ago, was drowned last Wednesday by the overturning of his canoe. Himself, wife and three daughters were in the canoe with some baggage, on their way to Mount Vernon, intending to go to Port Townsend. When they were near Deere's island, above Cape Horn, a sawyer struck the canoe upsetting it. [In this case, sawyer means a snag, the bane of all steamboat captains and canoers in the wild upper reaches of the Skagit river.] A daughter being swept away from the canoe, he swam out to her and carried her within reach of the shore, but his strength gave out and he was drowned. The entire community sympathize deeply with his afflicted family in their mourning for the husband and father who died for them.

Advertisements [This ad group repeated weekly on the Field Notes page]

Hanson & Co., wholesale and retail dealers in general merchandise. We have an immense stock of dry goods, clothing, boots and shoes, furnishing goods, carpets and matting, paints and oils, and hardware. We make loggers' supplies a specialty and will give good bargains to large dealers or loggers. [No town noted and we have no idea what his company was. Maybe a reader does?]
L.B. Knauss, first-class Barber, just from Seattle. Room in Bonanza Saloon, Mt. Vernon.
Morling House, Frank Carrin, Mann's Landing [Fir]. The best accommodations. Good liquors and cigars. Single meals or lodging, 50¢ Lower rates for permanent boarders.
Brownrig & [Henry] Quinn. Lyman Hotel, liquors and cigars. Ample accommodations for guests. First-class table. [Ad repeats each issue]
William Hamilton, general store, Hamilton's Landing. Groceries and supplies, dry goods, boots and shoes, hardware, tinware and farming implements. Prices the same as on the lower river.
Ball and Ledger, dealers in general merchandise. Are now conducting their business on a cash basis. Mount Vernon.
A.H. Skaling. Avon. General store. Dealer in dry goods [And see March 11 issue]
[Daniel] E. Gage. Dealer in general merchandise. Skagit City. Keeps continually on hand a choice selection of dry goods, groceries, boots, shoes, hardware, tinware, notions, etc. Which he will sell very low for each or in exchange for farm produce. Call and examine goods and prices before purchasing elsewhere.
Clothier & English, General merchandise. Keep all sorts of groceries, provisions, dry goods, clothing, rubber goods, hats and caps, boots and shoes, notions and varieties, hardware, glass and china. We have everything needed to furnish a home or equip a logging camp and will sell on reasonable terms. Post office store, Mount Vernon. [Oldest store in town, opened in 1876-77 by Harrison Clothier and Ed English, the town founders. Clothier was a teacher back in Wisconsin and English was one of his students. They met again when English came out to the Skagit county and first worked as a bookkeeper for George Savage's mill on Fir island. The store stood on Front street at what is now the east end of the bridge to West Mount Vernon.]
Ruby Hotel, [Michael] McNamara, proprietor. First-class table, neatly furnished rooms, billiard and pool tables. Best brands of liquors and cigars. Mount Vernon.
Mt. Vernon Hotel, Brann & Moran, wines, liquors and cigars. Billiard Table. [You can read details about many of these saloons at this Journal website]
Hardy & Hall. Sportsmen's Headquarters of Puget Sound. Opposite the Opera House [1st street] Mount Vernon. We have a full line of rifles and shot guns that we will sell cheaper than any house in Seattle. We sell the 24-inch [lever action] Winchester Rifle for $20. We have all kinds of ammunition, cartridges and fishing tackles. We also do all kinds of repairing and key fitting. Call and see us before purchasing elsewhere.
Sterling Hotel. Liquor and cigars. Enlarged and refurnished for the accommodation of the public. A.H. Lindstedt, proprietor.
Anderson's Hotel, Mann's Landing. Excellent table. Liquor and cigars of the very best brands

Legal ads

Dissolution of Partnership. Partnership existing between Otto Klement, Harrison Clothier and Edward G. English, doing business at Lyman, Skagit county, under the firm name of Klement & Co. dissolved by mutual consent. All debts to be paid to Klement at Lyman and he has assumed liabilities of the firm.
[Ed. note: Klement started this trading post/hotel/saloon in about 1881 and it was the only game in town for at least two years until Mr. Brownrig and Henry Quinn came to town and within two years, people like Birdsey Minkler would expand the village. For a humorous story that illustrates the wild nature of the town, read Frank Wilkeson's New York Times column about the good ole boys and the pig from 1881 at Klement's store, at this Journal website]
Dispute over land title. Michael Casey summoned to appear May 11, 1884, at the U.S. Land Office in Olympia. Re: Casey's pre-emption claim DS5797 at southwest quarter of section 25, township 35 north, range 5 east, [north of future Sedro], filed Nov. 28, 1882. Allen McDonald contests your claim "said to be unjust and illegal; and your failure to settle up[on and improve said land, and your total abandonment of same. McDonald made a counter claim DS7166 filed July 20, 1883. Testimony will be taken April 30, 1884, in front of Edward McTaggart, a notary public at the town of Fir. [McTaggart, an early settler at Edison, was a key figure in land claims throughout the late 1870s and 1880s.]

Field notes Return to the issues for March 4-25, 1884. Or return to transcriptions of other newspapers in Old Newspaper Logs

Story posted on Dec. 21, 2003 and last updated on Sept. 23, 2004
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Skagit River Journal

Skagit News earliest issues, 1884 April 1-15, 1884

Skagit News earliest issues, 1884
April 1-15, 1884